SAILBOATING


Midcoast, Maine in the 1930s was a time of jazz and swing, Porgy & Bess and Gone with the Wind, Charlie Chaplin, nylon stockings, and the discovery of penicillin. Rapid changes in transportation brought the Golden Gate Bridge, Amelia Earhart's solo trans-Atlantic flight, and improvements in steam engines and railroads. As progress delivered the nation's goods in record time, America witnessed the near demise of an entire fleet of merchant sailing ships.
Once essential in transporting fruit from the West Indies, fish from Georges Banks, and lumber and granite from every port along the Eastern Seaboard, the working fleet of nineteenth-century coasting schooners nearly became obsolete. Had it not been for the ingenuity of Frank Swift, an artist from rural Maine, these beautiful flagship vessels of America's maritime heritage would be long forgotten.
Recognizing Maine as a fashionable summer destination, Swift went on a thirty-year spree purchasing old wooden schooners with a vision of offering vacationers a new type of experience—wind jamming along the spectacular coast of Maine. The idea, born in 1936, especially appealed to "rusticators" who sought to escape from the hustle and bustle of urban living. Those who relished the simple pleasures of living aboard a Maine coasting schooner could now enjoy the special beauty of the Maine coast and the charm of its island villages.
It took several marginal seasons before the business caught on, but by the early 1940s, Swift had a flourishing business that ensured the steady growth of his fleet. Captain Swift eventually retired in 1961, twenty-five years after he introduced his first windjammer cruise on Penobscot Bay, leaving a rich legacy in his wake.
Following in Frank Swift's footsteps, a number of sea captains began offering windjammer cruises of their own in the 1950s. Promoting themselves on an informal basis through the 1960s, they formed the Maine Windjammer Association in 1977. Today, there are twelve vessels in the Maine Windjammer Association. The fleet includes two of Frank Swift's original schooners; America's two oldest working coasting schooners built in 1871; an oyster-fishing schooner; a Gloucester fishing schooner; a three-masted ram schooner; and a racing yacht. Seven of these ships have been designated National Historic Landmarks. Since 1960, four new vessels built specifically for wind jamming have been added to the fleet.
True to the original spirit of wind jamming, these vessels rely on the wind and tide, with destinations based on the weather conditions of that day. While motorized yawl boats may be used to push in light airs, maneuver in tight harbors, and ferry passengers ashore, sailing is the focus of each day. Guests may help sail, if they like, or just sit back and enjoy the ever-changing scenery on the rocky coast.
Without noisy engines or rigid schedules to adhere to, windjammer guests have special access to wildlife sightings along the coast of Maine. Curious whales and porpoises are not afraid to swim close to the vessels under sail. Seal pups play with abandon as the windjammers quietly drift past their nursery rookeries. Respectful distances are always maintained, but close-up views are awe-inspiring and plentiful.
An immediate sense of camaraderie develops between fellow shipmates due to the small size of the sailing ships. The twelve historic windjammers in the fleet only carry between twenty to forty guests, so it's easy to get to know everyone over the course of a cruise. Meals are served family style, so everyone's included in the conversation.
Cooked on a wood stove, the food is delicious, with lots of healthy choices. Thick, hot chowders are served with fresh-baked bread. Turkey dinners are complete with home-made pies and hand-cranked ice cream. One night during the cruise is set aside for a sumptuous lobster bake on a deserted beach, with all the steamed lobsters and corn on the cob you can eat.
Unlike cruise ships with packaged itineraries, shipboard life on a Maine windjammer is entirely unstructured. Each day's voyage is a new adventure. Since there are more than 3,000 islands dotting the coast, there are unlimited overnight anchorages. There's time to go ashore each day and stretch your legs or explore a small village or deserted island. At night, guests typically congregate on deck and tell stories, star-gaze, listen to music, or go for a midnight row.
While a windjammer cruise is definitely a great option for family and friends who want to spend quality time together, it's Also a great way to relax, reflect, and kick back on your own. For those seeking solitude, there's time to go for a run, take a stroll on the beach, enjoy a sunrise, or rediscover the sky's constellations at night.
Each year, more and more people are discovering the unique experience a Maine windjammer cruise offers. Three to six unstructured and relaxing days in a wild and natural environment renew and invigorate today's vacationers in much the same way they inspired the rusticators of old. And as we welcome progress with its new styles and technology, it's comforting to know there's still a special place where we can go and relive the simple ways of a bygone era.

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