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Somewhere on India’s coast still survives a quiet hamlet with white beaches, picturesque fisherfolk, swaying palms, colonial ruins and few tourists — Gopalpur-on-Sea. How very British the suffix “on sea” sounds like the names of little English fishing villages for example, Middleton-on-sea, Frinton-on-sea and so many others. Yet nothing could be more Indian than the name Gopalpur. A curious meeting of east and west, the history of the place explains why.
On a visit to Orissa we were attracted by reports of its magnificent and comparatively undiscovered beach, and decided to cut short our stay at the popular resort of Puri and continue our journey southwards to Gopalpur-on-Sea. Arriving at the nearby railhead of Berhampur, we took an autorickshaw and made the 16 kilometre drive to Gopalpur. The road meandered through coconut plantations and Casuarina groves, before sharply dipping downwards through Gopalpur’s narrow marketplace. We rounded a curve and saw stretching infinitely before us the dark blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. Reports of the splendour of Gopalpur’s beach had not been exaggerated and picture postcard-like, it flanked the sea in a shimmering expanse of silver white.
The seafront was bathed in the soft yellow light of sunset which lent a warm, lively glow to the several old bungalows that stood literally on the beach. Compared to the beach at Puri — littered with petromax-lit stalls selling a tawdry selection of souvenirs, Gopalpur’s sands were unsullied.
Originally a small fishing village on the coast of Orissa, it was so named when a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna was constructed sometimes in the 18th century, As Indian temples go, a fairly small one, but with a beautifully ornate dome, and an extremely tranquil air. During the year before the British shifted their capital from Calcutta to New Delhi, Calcutta developed a number of satellite getaway resorts like Curseong, Kalimpong and closer home, Diamond Harbour. Apart from its temple, Gopalpw was distinguished for its magnificent beach and was discovered as a perfect winter resort. Soon hotels and guest houses 1kied the seafront. The East India Company built huge warehouses and godowns, tout with Burma had pelted up’And Gopatpur had become a point for rice from Rangoon.
On a visit to Orissa we were attracted by reports of its magnificent and comparatively undiscovered beach, and decided to cut short our stay at the popular resort of Puri and continue our journey southwards to Gopalpur-on-Sea. Arriving at the nearby railhead of Berhampur, we took an autorickshaw and made the 16 kilometre drive to Gopalpur. The road meandered through coconut plantations and Casuarina groves, before sharply dipping downwards through Gopalpur’s narrow marketplace. We rounded a curve and saw stretching infinitely before us the dark blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. Reports of the splendour of Gopalpur’s beach had not been exaggerated and picture postcard-like, it flanked the sea in a shimmering expanse of silver white.
The seafront was bathed in the soft yellow light of sunset which lent a warm, lively glow to the several old bungalows that stood literally on the beach. Compared to the beach at Puri — littered with petromax-lit stalls selling a tawdry selection of souvenirs, Gopalpur’s sands were unsullied.
Originally a small fishing village on the coast of Orissa, it was so named when a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna was constructed sometimes in the 18th century, As Indian temples go, a fairly small one, but with a beautifully ornate dome, and an extremely tranquil air. During the year before the British shifted their capital from Calcutta to New Delhi, Calcutta developed a number of satellite getaway resorts like Curseong, Kalimpong and closer home, Diamond Harbour. Apart from its temple, Gopalpw was distinguished for its magnificent beach and was discovered as a perfect winter resort. Soon hotels and guest houses 1kied the seafront. The East India Company built huge warehouses and godowns, tout with Burma had pelted up’And Gopatpur had become a point for rice from Rangoon.
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