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TREKKING IN INDIA

Spectacular views apart, the Himalayan foothills are just ideal for trekking, offering energetic out-door people a different and exciting option for a holiday. The Garhwal and Kumaon regions of Uttar Pradesh are the most popular destinations for trekkers, though Chamba and Manali in Himachal Pradesh, and Ladakh and Zanskar in Jammu and Kashmir, have interesting trekking routes as well. Darjeeling and Sikkim in the east also have some trekking routes, but foreigners need to get permits for the latter area, and must follow some restrictions.

While Trekking as a sporting activity does not require prior training or practise, except that the trekking should be in good physical condition, there are certain dos and don'ts which should be carefully chosen, as some trek maybe more difficult, or many involve high altitude trekking. It is generally advisable to be accompanied by a local guide. Ensure that the pace of the trek is not too rapid, since this could result in exhaustion, and would in any case not be enjoyable.

Jammu and Kashmir


Background: The northern most state of India affords some spectacular contrasts in nature with alpine pastures, barren landscapes and rugged mountains. The area around Srinagar is rich in forests, lakes with houseboats, flowers, gardens and hills. This is a trekkers' paradise which merges on ahead with Zanskar and then with the region of Ladakh.

Srinagar is a good take off point for trekking in the Kashmir valley, or in Zanskar. For Ladakh, Leh also makes a good point to pack rucksacks and buy last minute provisions. Ladakh, often known as 'Little Tibet', is arid due to being in the rain-shadow and is like a high altitude desert, its lunar landscape often referred to as Moonland
For Zanskar, one can go to Srinagar and travel by road to Kargil which forms the take off point for Zanskar. .

Essential Information: The ideal time to be trekking is between April and N 0vember. To be on a trek, it is easy both to get assistance from specialised trekking agencies as well as from tourist offices in Srinagar and Delhi. No special permits for trekking are required though registration with tourist offices in Srinagar, Kargil or Leh is necessary. At road heads, porters and mules are available.

Treks & Options: The Amarnath Cave trek, in Kashmir, goes to the Amarnath Cave at 3,900 1]1 where a natural lingam' of ice is revered by pilgrims. From Srinagar (1,768 m) one can ride in a jeep or car till Pahalgam, 95 km, at a height of 2,130 m, located at the junction of the Lidder and Sheshnag rivers and surrounded by fir covered mountains. The jeepable route continues to Chandanwari, 3,700 m and is 13 km from Pahalgam. Here the Chandanwari and Sheshnag rivers form a confluence. The second day's route, till Sheshnag (3,700 m, a trek of 11 km) offers a choice of two routes: one goes past Pisu Hill and the other via Pisu Chati - the pilgrim's route. There is a beautiful fresh water lake and one can camp either at Zojibal or at Wanjan. On the third day one reaches Panchtarni, 11 km. The fourth day's 8 km trek to reach the cave trails along paths with several peaks of around 4,700 m across the nullah. From the cave, one can trek to Baltal on the Srinagar-Leh road (this is a distance of another 13 km); from here a jeep ride back to Sonamarg and then onto Srinagar is possible.

The ten-day Padam- Lamayuru trek routes along Burden Gompa. The first day is a short. walk in the Padam valley itself, to the famous Burden Gompa. Padam is the capital of Zanskar and stands on a wide fertile plain in which the Strap Linty Chug and the Dodo rivers join to form the Zanskar river. After crossing the river Zanskar at Tungri, camp is pitched by the village of Yo Youlang, close to Saini Gompa, considered to be one of the largest living monasteries of Zanskar. The route on the following days runs along the banks of the Zanskar, and several streams have to be crossed. It is on this section that the Purfi La (4,800m) is crossed. The route runs through grasslands and is often rocky with several overhangs, but there are plenty of poplars and good camping sites. Other passes, Netuksila (4,900 m) and Kubla (3,800 m) among them, also have to be crossed while Singila (5,600 m) is possibly the hardest part of the route. This trek can also be done in reverse. It is a fairly difficult trek. The best time for fording rivers is by 7 am, before the melting snows swell mountain streams.

Another ten day trek, from Skiu to Markha is Ladakh, begins at Marveling, after driving from Hemis (Leh). Ranging from 4-to-6 hours daily, the trek route clears Longmarula (5,800 m), Gandala (4,800 m). The trail passes through several ascents and descents, cutting through a narrow gorge enroute to Shingo. Highlights are monasteries at Hankar and Markha. On the last day, from Zinachen one can walk to Spituk or alternatively strike off near the Namling pass to Leh.

A six day trek from Srinagar to Kishtwar makes an exciting attempt for the amateur trekker as the route is fairly strenuous but not too' exerting. The first day's distance of 100 km from the Kashmir valley to Daksum can be covered by bus or taxi in 3 hours. There are camping facilities with wood and water in Daksum and ponies can be hired here. The next three days, one covers Chatru, Mughal Maidan and to conclusion at Dadpath. Those who wish to end the trek here can take a daily bus to Kisht war. Accommodation and camping faci1ities are available to Dadpath, and those wishing to complete the trek can stay overnight, and hit the trail again the next day. There are notable waterfalls at Kishtwar.lt is a popular take-off point for other treks too.

Another trek, this time to a glacier in the. Kashmir valley, one of several, is to Koiahoi (3,700 m), beginning at Pahalgam, and routing through Aru and Lidderwatt. This four-to-six day trek offers excellent trout fishing in the Lidder river. Pahalgam is connected to Srinagar by a good road. The most suitable period for this trek is between mid-May and mid-October, and outdoor camping is recommended. Options on this trek include the Tar Sar and Mar Sar lakes west of Lidderwatt at an altitude of 3,800 m. While Tar Sar is a day's return trek from Lidderwatt, that to Mar Sar takes two days as a ridge separates the two lakes. Another option for those who wish to avoid the return journey by the same route up to Pahalgam is to proceed northwards to Marpur on the Srinagar Sonamarg highway. This is a well-beaten track, and the trekker encounters steep as rents and descents on either side of Yamhir pass (4,100 m).

Located in idyllic surroundings, the six-day trek to Gangabal Lake passes along several smaller lakes and wild Himalayan flower meadows. Gangabal and Nundkol lakes have good stocks of trout, and there are good camping sites around. The trek begins at Sonamarg and concludes at Kangan, both major roadheads on the Srinagar- Leh highway. On the first day, the trail from Sonamarg crosses the Sind river, and the next day, one has to cross the Nichanai Pass (3,510 m). The next dew the trail to Gadsar includes the Vishensar Pass (4,191 m), Yemsar lake, and excellent views of Mount Vishnu. .From Gadsar next day, two alternate routes to Satsar are available, the better option being along the stream. On the fifth day one crosses the 4,146 m high Zazibal Gali pass, with steep ascents and descents all the way to Gangaballake. From here, on the following day, the trail runs through dense pine forests, and along the Narang temple ruins, to conclude at Kangan.

Uttar Pradesh


Background: The two hill regions of Garhwal and Kumaon in Uttar Pradesh provide some of the most thrilling close up views of the snow peaks of the Himalayas. Garhwal, because of its rich and rugged scenic beauty, has always been known to pilgrims as the land of the gods.

Garhwai's beauty lies in the dramatic counterpoint of steep wooded valleys yielding suddenly to breathtaking peaks. The hills of Kumaon are more gentle than the rugged scarps of Garhwal. Lakes abound in the UP Himalayas, and most of these have religious associations,

Essential Information: Motor roads now take pilgrims and trekkers to easy, striking distance of the trek base, and at these roadheads, supplies will have to be bought.

There are two seasons for trekking in UP: in May and June the days are cold and clear before monsoon drapes the mountains with mist. However, as the monsoon draws near, the weather can be unsettled and the trick is to start early in the morning. The next best season is end September to November.

Treks & Options: The trek to the source of the river Ganga will prove a memorable experience and is comparatively easy. From the road head at Gangotri one follows a fairly level trail alongside the river for 19 km till the snout of the glacier is reached. The river rises from an ice cave and the surroundings, especially if one proceeds another 5 km along the glacier to Tapovan, are among the most sublime in the world. Huge snow peaks rear up all around and the air is filled with the thump of avalanches as nature grinds the melting glacier.

Another fabulous trek with the snow peaks set further' back on wide screen is the Curzon Trail over the Kuari pass at 12,000 feet. The trek begins at Joshi math and after reaching Tapovan, carries on over Kuari pass. As one treads the silent bridle paths through massive gnarled trees of oak and conifer, bamboo and birch, one will almost certainly spot leopard and bear pugs on the path. This trail can start from Gwaldam or half-way along at Ghat. The full trek, which goes steeply down from the pass to Tapovan, takes ten days. This trail was chosen by the Viceroy, Lord Curzon, as the most impressive of the Garhwal bridle paths. Many people find it preferable to do it in reverse from Tapovan to Ghat, for the climb to the pass is not too steep from the north. Having crossed this pass with its magnificent, stunning panorama of snow giants, one can claim credit for having crossed the crest of the Great Himalaya.

A less trod area and a favourite of those who lave flowers is Har-ki-Doon in western Garhwal. The best season for flowers is in the monsoon months of July and August when all the high altitude grazing alps, known as buggials, are ablaze with vibrant colour. A lovely meadow at Bedni is an offshoot on the Curzon Trail. This lies above the tree line en route to the great mystery lake, Rupkund. This tiny lake lies hidden at 16,000 feet and when it melts briefly after the monsoon, its emerald waters reflect the rich panorama of the surrounding mountains.

At Hemkund, near the world-famous Valley of Flowers, is the high lake sacred to the Sikhs, a very steep climb of 19 km which is best done over two days if the visitor is not acclimatised. The first section of 14 km through the wooded valley of the Bhuindar valley leads to the halting place of Ghangaria set amidst a thick cypress forest. From here the Valley of Flowers with its phenomenal one thousand varieties of plants is only 4 km away. Owing to the popularity of this trek, camping has been prohibited in the valley.

For those who enjoy angling, there is the easy three-day trek to Dodital near Uttarkashi where a licence can be obtained for fishing trout. Part of the trek route is covered by motorable road from Uttarkashi. There are several hot sulphur springs throughout Garhwal and the one at Tapovan makes a satisfying end to the Kuari pass trek. Many pilgrimage shrines have been situated near these springs. At Badrinath, among the most holy of temples in India, pilgrims soak themselves in the scalding water before entering the sacred enclosure. At Yamunotri, the source of the river Yamuna, set amidst a magical dense forest, pilgrims cook their food in the hissing springs, some of which spout out from the bed of the river containing freezing glacial water flowing above the jets of steam.

The best season for trekking is after the monsoon in October, for then the skies are clear, with dazzlingly blue days when villagers harvest their crops. This is the time to visit the lovely hills of Kumaon, not as rugged as Garhwal, but with some spectacular mountain backdrops. The twelve-day trek to the Pindari glacier is considered one of the classics and for the adventurous there are innumerable side-glaciers to explore. For the real connoisseur of mountain loveliness, try to visit these hills in winter and see the miracle of the rhododendron trees bloom in crimson glory in March.

Himachal Pradesh


Background: If one were to obtain a panoramic view, Himachal Pradesh would appear like a succession of waves each riding above the other, merging in a splash of white towards the north. Four mountain ranges - the Shivalik, Dhauladhar, Pangi and inner Himalayan. traverse this land of snow and mountains, from east to west, to make this picture possible.

Located in northern India, Himachal Pradesh is accessible overnight by road or rail from New Delhi; and this makes the state popular with trekking enthusiasts. All of Himachal is mountainous, and so choosing specific trekking areas is difficult, but the state's natural, alpine beauty is exhilirating, its continuous range-topography challenging.

Essential Infonnation: Almost every area in Himachal has novel trekking routes. A diversity of terrain offers trekking scope for almost everyone: from novice trekkers to professionals.

The trekker will find that tracks leading to villages, or to pilgrim centres, are easy to follow. The changing terrain and climate of Himachal makes it an all-season trekking destination. From May, through October, every mountain pass is accessible, and in the months July to September, at high altitude meadows, wild flowers and early summer rhododendrons bloom. Winter in the Shivalik ranges is less severe than in the upper ranges

Treks & Options: One of the more popular routes includes the trail from Shimla, via Luhri (85 km, by bus) - Ani Khanag: Jalorri pass (3,135 m),Jibhit to Banjar. This is an easy five day trek with stages ranging between 15 and 25 km, and can be done in relative comfort as rest house accommodation is available at all places. The track trails along the banks of the Sutiej river, and cuts through varied forest scenery. Particularly interesting in spring for those partial to wildlife. From Banjar one has a choice of going to Kulu (58 km) or returning via Mandi, by bus.

An easy trek in the Dhauladhar range is from Dharamsala, via Bhagsunath (11 km) to Triund (9 km, 2,800 m) and back to Dharamsala (17 km). Bhagsunath has an old temple; Triund, just below the tree line, offers extensive views of the Kangra valley. A one day extention at Triund opens possibilities of a climb upto the meadows. A challenging variation, recommended with a local guide, is a week-long trek crossing the Dhauladhar range over the 4,300m high Indrahar pass into Chamba district. Earlier experience in trekking is essential.

From Kulu via Jari (35 km, by bus) Malana (10 km, 2,140m) - Naggar (15km) to Kulu/Manali (20 km, by bus) is a strenuous but exciting trek. The trail follows the thundering Malana river through a wooded and steep valley. Malan?- is the only village in the valley, and has very distinctive social and cultural variations. The route to Naggar over Chandrakhani pass (3,650 m) climbs steeply and allows particularly close views of peaks. The descent to Naggar is along gentler slopes. This trek is particularly recommended during August when the meadows near the pass are in full bloom.

A round trip Manali trek routes to Kothi (13 km, by bus), Marrhi (6 km 3,380 m), Rohtang pass (6 km, via Dashaur lake, 3,980 m). The uphill route may prove tiring unless one has gradually acclimatised to the higher altitudes. Passing Rahala falls and Dashaur lake, the trekker has breathtaking views, from Rohtang pass, of the peaks and glaciers of the Chandra-Bhaga range. An easier alternative is to do the trek in reverse order. But an even more exciting alternative is to cross into the arid wilderness of Lahaul valley. It is possible to spend the night at Rohtang pass. The snow-covered pass is open from May to October only.

A small, easy trek from Dalhousie to Khajjiar (16 km) and Chamba (16 km), is very popular. Khajjiar is centred around a lake, surrounded by coniferous forests. Chamba is the seat of an erstwhile mountain kingdom of the 10th century. All three centres have tourist bungalows and private hotel accommodation.

Mention must be made of some of the more exciting and remote routes. A two week grand Lahaul circuit starting from Jispa/Keylong, through Baralacha Pass (4,892 m), Chandratal (4,270 m), Batal (3,960 m) Hamta pass (4,300 m) and Manali runs through some of the fiercest and most enthralling mountain scenery of Lahaul.

The Bara-Bhangal route starts from Holi (Chamba district) on the Ravi and exits over Thamsar pass (4,750 m) into Kangra, or over Kali Hin pass (4,850 m) into Kulu. This trek traverses the traditional stronghold of the Gaddi shepherds.

The Manikaran-Pulga-Sara Umga pass (4,500 m)-Chota Dara route skirts the large and treacherous Bara Sigri Glacier. The trek starts in the beautiful Parvati valley and offers close views of many over-6000 metre high peaks.

An experienced trekker may try an excursion into the Pangi valley from either Chamba or Lahaul. The route offers a mix of wide stretches of wilderness and thickly forested slopes.

West Bengal


Background: Darjeeling's surrounding Himalayas with their high, snowy heights retain their aloofness and there is no finer place to take in the grandeur and beauty of perenially snow-clad mountains. The first rays of the morning sun flush the peaks in rosy radiance, and then banks of clouds build up and curtain out the view- across the country's most dramatic landscape.

Major base point Darjeeling is accessible through Bagdogra airport, or through rail heads Siliguri and New Jalpaiguri. The journey from the plains up to Darjeeling is one of the world's most exciting trips, by road or by the enchanting toy train, with the route winding through evergreen forests, terraced tea gardens and country villages.

Essential Information: The best known trekking months are April- May and October-November. While the spring months may experience the occasional shower, the fall months are dry and the visibility excellent. The first half of December is also a good trekking period, if one does not mind the intense, biting cold.

7,000 feet high and located on the spur projecting northwards from the Ghoom-Sendral ridge, Darjeeling faces, to the north, Rangpu valley in the foreground and Rangeet valley beyond. Across the entire northern horizon, snow caps ridge the sky: Kabru (24,015 feet), Janu (25,300 feet), Siniolchu (22,600 feet) and the majestic Kanchenjimga (28,156 feet).

Treks & Options: For those in a hurry, or wishing to sample the Bengal Himalayas, the following one day treks around Darjeeling are available to Tiger Hill, 8,482 feet, 11 km. The Tenzing Norgay road starts from Chowrasta and passes through Toong-Soong and AlooBari villages. The route is fairly even. From Jorebungalow the road ascends 5 km to Tiger Hill. The Gandhi Road route runs almost parallel to Hill Cart Road, joining it at Ghoom railway station. The renowned Buddhist monastery at Ghoom railway station. enshrines an enormous, gilded IS-feet high statue of the Buddha. Both routes offer excellent forest and mountain views. An overnight halt is recommended for those who wish to witness the fabulous spectacle of sunrise over the Kanchenjunga.

For those who wish to undertake a longer. trek, the 160 km Darjeeling-Manaybhanjang Tonglu-Sandakphu-Phalut trek, offers an excellent view of the Kanchenjunga and the Everest group of mountain peaks in Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. A motorable road runs from Darjeeling to Manaybhanjang (26 km). The trek from Manaybhanjang to Tonglu is a fairly steep climb through a succession of contourous trails. Tonglu, (10,100 feet) looks directly over Darjeeliug and commands a magnificent view over the hill resort. The next day's route is 21 km to Sandakphu (12,000 feet). Sandakphu is the highest point in the district of Darjeeling. The route traverses bamboo glades and consists of a zigzag path till Kalpokhri. From here, there is a steep climb following which the road descends to Bikhebhanjang. This region abounds in magnolia, primila and other alpine flowers. (May and June fine see them in full bloom.) Another steep climb leads the trekker to the Sandakphu Bungalow. On a clear day, Sandakphu offers a fantastic view of four of the world's five highest peaks: Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu and Lhotse. The next day's trek of 21 km to Phalut, (11:200 feet) is a fairly easy walk on a level stretch. Phalut is located at the tri junction of Sikkim, Nepal and West Bengal.

For a more exciting trek, an add-on from Phalut on a 149 km trek can be to Ramam-Rimbik-Jhepi, return Darjeeling via Bijanbari. Leaving Phalut, one descends rather steeply by a forest bridle path to cross the Ramam river, which forms a natural boundary between Sikkim and West Bengal. The next stretch includes a walk through a dense forest of rhododendron, silver fir, chestnut, oak and magnolia. On the march to Rimbik (7,500 feet) the next day, the foliage is lush and green, with flowering orchids growing wild. In these forests, the trekker can spot jungle fowl, kaleej and monal pheasants. The next day's trek is downhill all the way to Jhepi from where one can motor back to Darjeeling via Bijanbari.

Yet another option on this trek is offered at Rimbik. From Rimbik to Darjeeling via Palmajna, Batasi and Manaybhanjang is a 180 km route. The trek to Palmajna, Batasi and Manaybhanjang is a 180 km route. The trek to Palmajna reveals the Kanchenjunga in all her majesty and glory. The trekker passes on towards Batasi (7,000 feet). The road ascends steadily to Deoraly and then the descent starts till the Batasi Forest Bungalow. The next day's March upto Manaybhanjang finds the trekker at the turnaround point from where a jeep/bus can be taken to cover the 21 km distance to Darjeeling.

The Darjeeling-Manaybhanjang Tonglu-Sandakphu-Rimbik-Jhepi-Bijanbari-Darjeeling trek of 116 km follows the same route to Sandakphu. From Rimbik, the route once again follows the traditional trail upto Manaybhanjang via Palmajna and Batasia.

Trekking in Himachal
Himachal Pradesh is one of the fascinating areas of the Indian Himalayas. Famous for its breathtaking valleys, hill temple architecture, handicrafts and hospitable people, Himachal was founded in 1966 with the unification of a number of princely states, combining the grandeur of royalty, rugged natural beauty and modern tourist infrastructure. The state covers a total area of 56,019 sq km, most of which is hilly and mountainous terrain.

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Trekking in Kashmir
A lush green bowl, 129 km long and 40 km wide, Kashmir is surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains. In the south-west, the Pir Panjal rising at places to 5,000 metres separates the valley from the plains. The principal pass in this mountain range is Banihal through which vehicular traffic flows into the valley from the Jammu area. On the north-east, the valley is flanked by the Pangi range, the principal summits of which are Harmukh and Mahadeo, both close to the capital 16 city of Srinagar. To the north is the majestic Ladakh range, and the Lidder Valley is protected by the Kolahoi massif.

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Trekking in Darjeeling
Darjeeling, at 2,134 metres, is West Bengal's primary hill station. Covered with tea gardens and buildings that are a legacy of the days of British rule in India, Darjeeling is still unspoilt and pristine. The region abounds in rhododendrons, primulas and orchids of many varieties. Over 600 species of birds have been recorded in the forests and hills around Darjeeling.

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Trekking in Ladakh
Literally translated, Ladakh means the land of passes. The region has many names and these include 'Moon Land', 'Shangrila' and 'Little Tibet'. A vast expanse of high altitude desert with its lowest point at 9,000 feet, Ladakh receives scanty rainfall and finds its primary source of water in the Indus river which flows for some 459 km before entering neighbouring Pakistan. The Karakoram and Kailash ranges form the north and east borders of Ladakh:

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Trekking in Sikkim
Nestled at the foot of the world's third highest mountain peak, the Kanchenjunga, Sikkim covers an area of just 7,300 sq km. It is hard to find even a square kilometre of flat land in Sikkim. The elevation rises from 244 metres where the mountains begin to the lofty heights of Kanchenjunga at 8,534 metres. Sikkim is composed of the Rangit and Teesta river basins and these two river valleys are immensely luxuriant, with thick forests ranging from sal in the deep southern gorges to conifers in the upper tributaries.

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