African Safaris » Rusinga Island

Rusinga Island in the middle of Lake Victoria has featured on the anthropological map since Louis Leakey discovered Proconsul ape there. It also has a place in the history books of modern Kenya as Tom Mboya’s birthplace.

Lake Victoria itself, all 70,000 square kilometres (28,000 square miles) of it, plays a minor and under-rated role in Kenya’s tourist circuit. This is despite its scenic beauty which has attracted praise since the days of the early explorers. Today the villages are sprawling townships with metallic roofs shining in the sun. The concealing trees have greatly diminished but the peaceful beauty remains.

African Explorations Limited have established a camp on Rusinga Island from which they run their half-day fishing excursions. Guests are usually collected from the Maasai Mara in the early morning, flown over the Kisii highlands which on a clear day is a colourful patchwork of green tea, yellow maize and brown, freshly turned earth and delivered to Rusinga airstrip which lies directly behind the camp.

Next, over a full English breakfast served in the dining area with a view of the lake and surrounded by well-kept lawns, trees and shrubs, the different activities available are discussed with experienced guides. These include Rusinga’s most famous activity fishing. However, bird watching comes a close second and for those with no particular yen for fin or feather there is a general sightseeing expedition by boat.

Nile perch is the big catch for fishing enthusiasts. These fish are abundant and all casters stand a good chance of bagging a big one-45 kilograms (100 pounds) or more even if it is the first time you have held a rod! They have been recorded at twice this weight and the guides are always discovering new fishing grounds. Besides the perch, which were only introduced in the 1950s, Lake Victoria’s wide variety of fish is regarded as an evolutionary phenomenon. These fish, particularly the brilliantly coloured cichlids which are so popular in aquariums, are now being seriously threatened by the predatory Nile perch.

Feeding fish eagles has become a main feature of the trip and guests have excellent opportunities to take action photographs of these majestic birds as they swoop down beside a boat to grab a fish. Fish eagles and hammerkops are among the many birds nesting in and around the camp, where sightings of over 100 species have been recorded.

The sightseeing trip takes you past picturesque fishing dhows to unspoilt, traditional fishing villages where there is the opportunity to witness the colourful scene of the day’s catch arriving and being distributed for cooking, drying or smoking. There are secluded areas on the shoreline where families of the rare spotted-necked otter are often seen. Giant monitor lizards bask on rocks, slipping into the water as you approach.

At present the excursion is a one-day trip, returning to the Maasai Mara in the evening. Overnight accommodation will be available in the near future. It is also possible to visit the island from other parts of Kenya on arrangement with African Explorations