African Safaris » Freshwater Fishing Africa

If you consider your angling to be a contemplative and sedentary pastime, fishing in East Africa is not for you. The variety of indigenous and exotic fish and the range of wild and unexploited locations turn a casual day out into an angling adventure.

East Africa, with its wealth of animals, has long been geared to the needs of the game safari traveller. Fishing safaris, on the other hand, are still relatively unstructured and consequently you need a sense of initiative, and adventure in your soul, if this is to be the holiday for you.

Head for the hills Just an hour’s drive from Nairobi, detouring off Kenya’s main North road, you can climb into the foothills of the rolling Aberdare mountains, a series of steep ridges separated by narrow valleys, each with a dashing mountain stream. The precipitous slopes are heavily cultivated by Kikuyu whose tribal customs, ironically enough, revile cold-blooded creatures, including fish. So fishing here is reserved exclusively for visitors.

The nearest river, the Thiririka, is reached via Gatundu, the country home of Jomo Kenyatta. Trout can be found in the river just short of the forest to between 2,000 and 2,300 metres (6,560 to 7,545 feet), and deep within the forest itself to about 2,750 metres (9,020 feet). However, the rugged conditions will limit access to only a few kilometres from the river banks. This is quite sufficient, given the allowable limit for the river of six fish per day. The hardy angler, after bagging his limit, can traverse the ridge for a second bag on the adjacent river. But for most people the heavy going demands retreat until another day.

There are numerous rivers and trout holding streams on this side of the Aberdares including the Gatamayu, Ndurugu, Karimeno, Chania, Thika and Mathioya. There are also late opportunities for big fish on the plateau of the Aberdare National Park. Streams on the south-eastern slopes are narrow, little more than two metres (six feet) wide and consisting of a series of pools connected by narrow rapids overhung by bushes. A rising fish is a rare sight since, in the absence of a significant insect hatch, trout feed on underwater aquatic insects and crustaceans. Casting is not easy on the forested banks but the narrow streams do not need a long cast. Use a sunken fly, of the attractor rather than the imitative variety a coachman, invicta, Watson’s fancy and butcher are successful patterns as are “local” specials known as a Mrs Simpson or the Kenyan bug.

One delightful surprise in Kenya is the availability of high quality trout flies at very low cost. Produced for the overseas market, they are also made to order for local fishermen by the expert fly tyers of Kenya Trout and Salmon Flies at Kikuyu, just outside Nairobi, who pride themselves on reproducing any pattern you care to name.

On the Thiririka, as on most Kenyan rivers, trout are of the short, fat rainbow variety. Neither rainbow or brown trout are native to Kenya but were introduced in ova brought from Britain by Major Ewart Grogan in 1905. These, and later fish from South Africa were introduced to the Gura, Amboni and Nairobi rivers near Nyeri. (Do not confuse the Nairobi River with Nairobi City: the two area hundred miles apart.)

By turning left into the Aberdares at Thika about 45 kilometres (30 miles) from Nairobi, and then driving the same distance again, you will arrive at the government fishing camp at Kamakia. Sleeping huts and firewood are available at little cost. The camp is ideally located on a ridge with the Chania and Kamakia rivers on either side of These rivers are cleaner, faster and shallower than the streams a few miles to the south and they provide a large population of rainbow trout.

The forest area is largely unfished and the more intrepid angler can descend close to 300 metres (1,000 feet) on the almost vertical elephant tracks that join the valley to the ridge. Elephants are rarely seen but evidence of their presence is all around you. The wise angler talks loudly to his companions as he descends the track, thereby avoiding any possible confrontation with ascending elephant, rhino or buffalo. The simple rule is that East African anglers do not dispute possession of path or pool with the local big game!

Back at Thika, the Blue Post Hotel offers both accommodation and scenic beauty. It lies at the confluence of the ‘Mika and Chania rivers which descend through the hotel gardens in two mighty waterfalls. Both rivers are stocked with trout in their upper reaches but at Thika the warm foaming waters contain barbus (Barbus Thikensis). These silver fish, streamlined and strong from a life in the fast flowing water, can be angled for, African-style, with some ledgered maize paste.

In the rivers fish barely reach 500 grams (one pound) but in the pools below the waterfalls at the Blue Post, fish weighing up to 4.5 kilograms (10 pounds) are caught. The idea is to clamber down to the tail of the pool and then carefully work your way to the falls. On a ledge beneath the waterfall itself, the bait can be cast into the white water and allowed to swing through the pool. The strike is hard and fish fight without showing themselves until they reach the landing net. Unfortunately they have too many bones so are not good to eat. Vickling in vinegar to dissolve the bones has been recommended, but it is also possible to exchange larger speciment for pineapples sold by the local roadside traders. This is a more refreshing reward for a successful day’s fishing.

Fishing gear: For a successful fishing safari you need to plan carefully. You must come equipped although, despite the wide spectrum of coarse and game fish you will encounter, you need neither great quantities of clothes or tackle. Not much, however, is available locally and what can be bought is expensive so provide yourself with a 2.5- to three metre (eight- to 10-foot) fly rod; sinking line and casts to 2,725 grams (six pounds) test. A medium spinning or casting rod with a variety of spoons; diving, running or surface lures of 25 grams (one ounce) or less; a heavy casting rod complete with 140 grams (30 pounds) line; rig for live and dead bait and a set of larger lures designed for ocean game fish, even though your quarry are all freshwater fish.

Clothing should be lightweight and quick-drying as the climate is too warm for thigh and chest waders. Stout nonslip wading shoes can be used although many anglers find canvas tennis shoes more comfortable. Trousers can be long or short but beware of the fierce sun concentrated by low latitude and high altitude which can savage even the least susceptible of skins. Bring a hat, dark glasses and high factor sunscreen.

If you wish to arrange your own safari, the best place to start is Nairobi.