Travel » Dakshin Restaurant - Bangalore

BANGALORE – DAKSHIN RESTAURANT
At Dakshin at Windsor Manor, one gets to savor the subtlety and finer nuances of Karnataka cuisine.

The waitstaff in mundu (dhoti), sporting an angavastram slung on the shoulder, move gracefully. The walls have period paintings and the windows have Karnataka silk drapes. Interiors are festooned traditionally, punctuated with temple bells, brass embellishments and silken dhurries. The tableware is silver and gold. Live Carnatic music is played by two musicians at lunch and dinner.

The weighty, ornate menu looks like the replica of a temple door, while the pages within are of handwoven silk. The items listed are typical of the culture of the south: vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare from the interiors of Karnataka and regional offerings from Kerala, Andhra and Tamil Nadu. The preparations are in the traditional vessels, urli and addukku and we were transported to a bygone era as we began with muneer, an amalgamation of sugarcane juice, tender coconut water, natural sandal and honey (Rs 50). It was quintessentially south Indian in flavor.

The Karnataka section listed Mangalore coast and Coorg items: kane rawa fry (lady fish and rawa crumb fried with spices, Rs 150), kaima undae curry (mutton kofta Thorward style with ginger, garlic, coriander leaves Rs 150), pandi curry (Coorg specialty pork items with spices and vinegar, Rs 150). Add 35 percent in taxes.

We opted for hookosu buttoni korma (cauliflower, green peas blended in coconut milk and garam masala, Rs 120). The sauce was of grated coconut... a pleasant experience new to us despite our years spent in this state. We had this with appam (soft-centered rice pancake lacy at the edges, Rs 20). There are also Bijapuri mutton korma (Rs 160), bendakai hulli (bhindi cooked in tomato, ginger, garlic, aniseed Rs 110) and belle thovae turhar dal tempered with Karnataka spices), the latter a far cry from the usual sambhar and a revelation about the depth and range of cuisine of this state. We had these with vichey paratha (made of refined flour, Rs 30) and neer dosai (handkerchief-thin delicate rice dosa Rs 20) that melted in the mouth.

Bisi bela bath (a speciality of spiced rice, dal and vegetables, Rs 100) and some other items were also listed. The Andhra list was in English and Telugu scripts. Chapa pulusu (Rs 150) is a curry fish in a super hot sauce, gongura mamsam is boneless lamb with sour leafy greens and spices (Rs 160) and there were many others. In the same way, Tamil Nadu items listed in English and Tamil scripts included vazhakka urulaikilangu podimas, which we ordered. It was a dry preparation of raw bananas and potatoes deliciously tempered with mustard and curry leaves (Rs 110). Our kariveppulai yera were large tiger prawns marinated in curry leaves, ginger, garlic, spices and deep fried (Rs 300). They were cooked in two dais and came with mini banana dosas.

There are plenty more delights at Dakshin, all prepared with care in the traditional way. We ordered the elaneer payasam (tender coconut kernel blended with milk to make a semi solid sweet dish Rs 70), which we had, without pause, till the last teaspoonful was over.