Kochi. The name itself conjures up images
of the Chinese fishing nets, the spices, ayurveda and the ships sailing
out into the ocean. The ever vibrant, ever developing and the ever booming
city. It appears to be growing daily. Distinctly different from other
parts of Kerala, Kochi is everybody’s delight. It is an ideal blend
of tradition with the modern. The city of Ernakulam wears the new age
look with some sky scrappers scattered here and there. And the old rustic
charm of colonial days makes the island of Fort Kochi a study of contrasts.
The only common factor between both the cities are the red painted city
buses, the yellow hooded autorickshaws, friendly people and of course
the mosquitoes. Be sure to pack a lot of mosquito repellents when you
come to Kochi. The queen of the Arabian sea is also a paradise to mosquitoes.
From time immemorial, Kochi has played host to guests from far off lands.
The Arabs, the Chinese, the Dutch, the Portuguese, the French, the British,
all came here for trade. Though for different reasons, follow their footsteps
for a peek into a slice of God’s Own Country!
History
History dwells in every nook and corner of Kochi. The Chinese fishing
nets, the Jewish synagogue, the historic churches, all speak of her past
grandeur and of her busy colonial days.
Kochi is a natural harbour. A cataclysmic flood in the Periyar River
wiped out the port of Kodungaloor- identified with the legendary Muzris,
a hub of trade in South India- in ad 1340, diverting the traders to
the newly formed Kochi port. The kings of Kochi shifted his residence
to Kochi soon after. The traders came in hordes, both from within the
country and abroad. The Arabs, the Chinese, and the Europeans landed
here, their ships laden with luxury goods, and took back with them pepper
and other spices.
The enterprising traders from Gujarat and Bombay set up shops, making
Kochi a cultural cauldron. And now, the prospect of new business opportunities
and IT brings to Kochi people from different part of India. And Kochi
welcomes all.
What to see
Historical Mattanchery
The Mattanchery Dutch Palace was built by the Portuguese as a gift for
the local king. But the Dutch repaired it, and the name just stuck.
Now a museum, the palace, like many others in Kerala, boasts of a hall
full of murals narrating stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
There are also old colonial maps of Kochi and royal memorabilia. The
museum is open 10 am to 5 pm everyday except Fridays.
The Jew Street
of Mattanchery is the only remaining Jewish settlement in India. With
its cobbled pathway, neat little shops and houses on either sides, wrinkled
old ladies in floral frocks, and men leaning on their canes watching
people go by, you get the feeling that time just froze.
Fort Kochi
A walk through this area takes you through Kochi's history. End it with
the stunning sunset spectacle over the Arabian Sea. The last rays of
the sun paint the waters shades of gray, orange and red, before the
night wipes it all away in a single stroke.
Bolgatty Palace
On a tiny island, the palace was built by the Dutch and later housed
a British resident. The property has been developed into a hotel by
Kerala Tourism, complete with a golf course and enchanting tree top
like honeymoon cottages.
Chinese fishing nets
From Vasco Da Gama Square, walk down the short promenade to see these
cantilevered fishing nets reeling out catches all through the day. They
speak of a rich legacy, handed down generations ever since traders from
Kublai Khan’s court left them over 600 years ago.
Wellingdon Island
This island between Ernakulam and Fort Kochi is home to the Southern
Naval Command. The island is entirely manmade. It was dredged out of
the backwaters and the sea. It is connected to the mainland by the Venduruthy
Bridge. The view from the bridge is spectacular. On the Ernakulam side,
you can see the tall crane of the Kochi Shipyard, one of the major ship
building yards in India and on the island side you can see the Navy
vessels.
Hill Palace Museum, Tripunithura
The Hill Palace was the seat of the Kochi Raja. Surrounded by ascending
lawns, this palace turned museum on a hilltop, 16 kms from Kochi, has
13 categories of exhibits, which include paintings, carvings and other
royal antiquities. The king's throne and gold crown is on display here
besides other effects like art, furniture, etc. There is also a botanical
garden with tropical trees imported from Central America to Australia.
Vasco House
Vasco House in Rose Street, is said to be where Vasco Da Gama lived.
Mangalavanam Bird Sanctuary
This protected bird sanctuary is right in the heart of Kochi, next to
the High Court, and is home to exotic and rare varieties of migratory
and resident birds.
Museum of Kerala History
Audio-visual exhibits and paintings show the history and culture of
Kerala here.
Art Complex - Madhavan Nayar Foundation
This museum, located in Edapally, 10 kms north of Kochi, exhibits over
200 original paintings and sculptures by contemporary Indian artists
and sculptors. A Centre for Visual Arts displays reproductions of painting
legends from the time of Leonardo da Vinci to this century.
Getaways
Kodungaloor
Before Kochi became one of the most important harbours of India, Kodungaloor,
32 kms away, occupied that pedestal. It is said to be the same Muziris
where the apostle St Thomas landed in AD 52. Cheraman Juma Masjid, one
of the oldest mosques of south India, is situated en route to Kodungaloor.
Kalady
The pilgrim centre of Kalady, located 45 kms from Kochi, is the birthplace
of Shankaracharya, credited for the revival of Hinduism under his Advaita
philosophy in the 8th century AD. There are two shrines here in his
memory.
Thekkady
If you want to watch a plethora of flora and fauna in their natural
habitat, then head for Thekkady, 190 kms from Kochi. The Periyar lake
within is a congregation point for elephants and other animals.
Alleppey
65 kms from Kochi, Alleppey is backwater country. The houseboat ride
from Kochi to Alleppey is as exotic as it gets with green paddy fields
stretching as far as the eye can see and houses which are islands in
a sea of water. By train or road it is just an hour away.
Athirappally and Vazhachal waterfalls, about 35 km from Kochi, is a
must for nature lovers. The two waterfalls separated by a few kilometers
are distinct in nature. While one falls unhindered through a massive
height, the other cascades in a rush.
Lakshadweep
From Kochi there are ships available to take you to Lakshadweep, a group
of 36 islands, about 300 km off Kochi in the Arabian Sea.
Kumarakam
Kumarakam about an hours ride from Kochi is a vibrant lush green peninsula
jutting into the ever-effervescent Vembanad Lake The trip here is incomplete
without house boat rides. Explore the lagoons and the water ways here.
Watch the fish skirt the boats...the birds swooping low. The magic of
this land makes it an ultimate tourist destination. There are various
hotels here to stay at. It is ideal to stay back at kumarakam.
Cherai Beach
A virgin beach surrounded by tall coconut palms and lush paddy fields.
If you are lucky, you might even spot a dolphin. It is advisable to
return back to Kochi, unless you get very late. There are hotels near
the beach.
Dining Out
Seafood is Kochi's specialty and many of the restaurants servea
variety of fish in different Kerala styles. At Fort Kochi, seafood stalls
which line the waterfront pan-fry fish bought from nearby fishermen.
You can relish them under the umbrella of Chinese fishing nets. But
seafood is not the only option. There are many numbers of outlets all
over Kochi serving different cuisines. MG Road is the hub of eating
outlets, though good and reasonably priced restaurants are interspersed
all over the city.
The Renaissance, a multicuisine restaurant of the four-star Avenue
Regent hotel at MG Road serves Indian, Chinese, Continental, Thai and
Kerala cuisine. It is a plush restaurant.
Ceylon Bake House, also in MG Road, has a limited menu but is worth
a dekko for its Ceylon parothas and mutton biryani. One of the most
frequented places for vegetarian fare is Dwarka in MG Road. North Indian
fare is a specialty here. Prices are in the middle range and the restaurant
is a landmark in town.
At Chittoor Road, next to Mymoon theatre is Fry's Village Restaurant,
unique for being a converted tharavad or the traditional dwelling place
of a joint family. Local Malayalee recipes are a specialty here and
food is therefore on the spicier side.
Rice Boats at the Taj Malabar Hotel is a restaurant where the seats
are within long rice boats. The fish curries come in spicy Kerala style.
Seafood is the highlight here.
Bimbi's is another landmark; one on Marine Drive is located off the
GCDA complex. It serves fast food Indian style, including pav bhaji.
Not exactly the place to zoom in on if you want local fare, but the
food is good and the crowd are lively and young. There is also another
Bimbi's off MG Road.
Waterfront Café on Willingdon Island has a great location situated
as it is on a lagoon with ships ambling nearby through a channel on
its way to Cochin Harbour. The highlights here are local Kerala dishes
but plenty of other cuisine options, besides buffet lunches, are on
the plate.
Shopping
MG Road
During the old days, it was called the 60ft road; the main artery of
the Ernakulam town. Though it has been widened, the rush hour traffic
jams are real killers. No mega malls here, but all major brands have
outlets on the MG road. The state emporia Kairali is also here, for
picking up lomcal handicrafts, textiles, and bric-a-brac. Do check out
the gold and diamond centres along this road. The latest in shopping
fad is the wedding centres. Weddings are huge occasions in Kerala, and
people had to go all over the place to shop. The wedding centres by
Alukkas, offer everything which goes into the wedding package, from
dress materials to jewelry. Marine Drive: The Greater Kochi Development
Authority has a shopping complex where you can pick up souvenirs and
mementos. It is the place to shop for imported goods too.
Jew Street, Mattanchery
This winding street is dotted with quaint shops selling antiques, artifacts,
and furniture. The variety of antiques that you find here astounds the
mind. Make sure you pick at least a tiny piece of work to commemorate
your experience here.
Visiting
Kochi’s proximity to the equator, the sea and the mountains
blesses it with a moderate, equatorial climate. The summer--from March
to end of May-- tends to be hot and humid. The skies open up incessantly
from June to September, and less harder in November and December. So,
whatever is the season, remember to pack an umbrella. A trip to the
city can be planned anytime of the year.
Tourist Offices
The KTDC – Kerala Tourism Development Corporation – office
on Shanmugham Road is open all days of the week from 8 am to 7 pm. The
Tourist Police are helpful guides to the city. The Government of India
tourist assistance office is on Willingdon Island. It’s open everyday
from 9 am to 7 pm. You’ll find all of these have maps, brochures
and are willing to help you with tours.
How to get there
Air
The Kochi International Airport at Nedumbassery is about 30 km from
the city and has daily flights to the Middle East and Singapore. Domestic
flights to Bangalore, Chennai, Calicut, Trivandrum, New Delhi, and Mumbai
take off on a daily basis from here. The airport is built in keeping
with the traditional temple architecture of Kerala. It gives a feeling
that you are really in God’s Own Country.
Rail
Ernakulam Junction is the main railway station in Kochi, and a major
stop on the south-western rail route. Trains connect Kochi to major
cities like Bangalore, Mangalore, Chennai, Mumbai, Delhi, and Thiruvananthapuram
and to smaller towns within Kerala.
Road
The government-run Kerala State Road Transport terminus is very near
the Ernakulam Junction Railway station. You can get buses to all cities
in Kerala from here. Private buses and long-distance luxury buses to
Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Goa and other cities in India operate
out of Kaloor Bus Station.
Water
Cruise ships to Singapore operate out of Kochi. Ships to Lakshadweep
sail out of the port twice a wee
