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   Vietnam Travel Guide



Sometimes nature excels itself and anybody who has ventured along the coast of northern Vietnam will agree that here primeval forces have produced something very special. Visitors to Ha Long Bay encounter rank upon rank of limestone pinnacles vanishing into the mists. Soaring hundreds of metres from the water, the rocks are twisted, patterned and creviced into bizarre shapes. The hundreds of isles are pierced by amazing grot­toes, carved by wind and water and festooned with stalactites and stalagmites. It’s hardly sur­prising that legend as well as mist cloaks these waters. Amid this dazzling seascape live fisherfolk, removed from the fast changing mainland life, car­rying on traditional ways in floating villages. It’s a wonder­land just asking to be explored, as Maria Coffey, who led a pio­neering kayak tour of the bay, so graphically describes in her article. Ha Long Bay was out of bounds for many years, but now the gates have been opened for

When to Go
The winter months, from December to February, are not recommended for kayaking in Ha Long Bay tempera­tures can drop to 50C, and cool winds from the northeast bring drizzle but Canoeing the waters of the bay v can be as tranquil or as exhilarating as you want to make it. A reasonable level of fitness is needed to handle strong currents encountered in the main channels between the islands, especially, when the wind gets lip. On the outer edge of the bay, more exciting stuff awaits the intrepid, particularly in summer when large swells make for challenging kayaking every other season has its advantages. From May to September Ha Long Bay has its highest precipitation but also the most sunshine. Thunderstorms usually move through at night, and during the days peri­ods of rain quickly give way to clear skies. In July and August, temperatures can reach 35LC, with high humidity. This is also the typhoon season and Ha Long Bay usu­ally experiences one or two each year. Spring and autumn offer cooler temperatures, which are more comfortable for kayaking, but more hazy days. It must be said, however, that mist suits Ha Long Bay, and adds to its mystery and allure.

Experience
Ha Long Bay offers a great deal of very protected water, which is excellent for be­ginners. A reasonable level of fitness is recommended, as there can be strong currents in the main channels, and when these meet wind or swell rougher conditions can occur. More experienced paddlers can find plenty of challenges around the perimeter of the bay. Particularly in summer when the prevailing winds are from the southwest, large swells can Hake for exciting kayaking in rock gardens, through arches and in sea caves.

Getting There
Flights to Hanoi are available from most Southeast Asian cities. From Hanoi to Ha Long Bay takes five hours by mini-bus or car. Local buses, very crowded, uncomfortable and slow, are not recommended.

Permits
Tourist visas for up to one month can be obtained from any Vietnamese embassy or consulate, and can be easily renewed in Vietnam. Special permits are required for kayaking in Ha Long Bay. At the time of writing, it’s virtually impossible for individual kayakers to obtain these permits. Kayaking must be done in groups, with a travel com­pany which has obtained the necessary permission. The only company which has been regularly leading kayaking trips in Ha Long Bay is Mountain Travel - Sobek. Pres­ently they are offering six trips a year.

Health
Hanoi and Ha Long Bay are considered malaria-free. For people planning to travel elsewhere in Vietnam, anti-malaria medi­cation is recommended.

Food
Vietnamese cuisine is both delicious and healthy. It’s generally low in fat and mildly seasoned, and freshness is considered a very high priority. Ha Long Bay is a sea­food lover’s paradise: many fishermen have live-wells in their boats and offer prawns, shrimp, swimming crabs, squid and a variety of fish. These fishermen are often accompanied by sampans which act as general stores, and also carry fresh fruit and vegetables.

Accommodation
Bai Chay, which with Hon Gai is now officially known as Ha Long Bay City, offers a variety of accommodation, ranging from basic, family-run "mini-hotels" which have rooms for a night, to large, interna­tional-standard hotels with rooms. costing up to a night. Camping is still tech­nically illegal for this, or for over-nighting on a boat, seek special police permission.

Most popular sights
Vietnamese regard Ha Long Bay, in Quang Ninh Province, as one of the wonders of the world. More than 1000 islands are scat­tered over an area of 3880sqkm. Weath­ering over the centuries has carved the limestone into bizarre shapes and there are scores of caves worth exploring.

If you do not have your own kayak, it is possible to visit some of Ha Long Bay’s more spectacular sights on a boat trip. Dau Go Cave, known as the "wonder grotto" to early French visitors, has a remarkable collection of stalactites and stalagmites which, without too much stretching of the imagination, can be seen to resemble ani­mals, birds and humans. Other popular stops you can reach include the Pelican Cave, Hang Hanh Tunnel, which is 2km long, and Trinh Nu (Virgin) Cave. Legends abound about the rock formations in the fresh fish is on the menu every day for the people who live on Ha Long Bay, most of whom rarely leave their craft bay, which is alleged to have a monster lurking within its depths, a sinister black creature in the shape of a long serpent. The name Ha Long means "the Landing Dragon", referring to the Dragon Mother who descended from Vietnam long ago to defend the country from invaders.

Virgin Cave gets its name from a beautiful young girl of the area. Her parents were too poor to have a fishing boat of their own so they rented one. However, there came a time when they could not pay the rich boat-owner and he demanded that they settle the debt by handing over their daughter. When she resisted his attemps to woo her, she was beaten. But still she refused. Finally the rich man ordered her to be taken to a grotto and abandoned there until she yielded. She starved to death. After she was removed and buried, a rock grew from the burial spot in the shape of the beautiful damsel.

For an excellent view over the bay, climb Mount Yen Tu. On the top is a 13th century pagoda. This was built by King Tran Nhan Tong, who conquered the Mon­gols then retired to this mountain where he founded a Buddhist sect. Climbing the mountain, amid the pines you come across 45 stupas holding remains of monks.


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